At Mui Fa Chuen, platters of marinated goose, pig’s ear and intestines, squid, tofu and egg crowd the tables. The restaurant serves Chiu Chow classics such as grey mullet served cold with soybean sauce, minced pork congee and satay sauce beef with rice noodles. Visit at lunchtime or for daa laang – an informal late-night meal named after the baskets carried by food sellers in the 1950s.